By Richard Martin, Harold Koda
A 1995/96 exhibition catalogue. Underwritten by way of Chanel and Versace.
This is a survey of the heritage of high fashion, from the formation of the home of worthy in mid-19th-century Paris to the key designers of the current day. The ebook specializes in the hugely expert crafts which are necessary to the creation of high fashion. Separate chapters research tailoring innovations and finishes, weaving, draping, and the problematic ornament produced through embroiderers, feather-makers, and different craftspeople on whom couturiers count for the execution in their principles.
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If it represents at all, then fashion represents the unrepresentability of sexual difference, the impossibility, in other words, of not wearing a mask. It does so by completely and recklessly exploiting sexual difference, the oppositionally organized identity of social gender roles. Precisely through this unscrupulous bringing-into-play of the clichés of gender roles, the true woman and the real man emerge as phantasma in a system of the sexes that has been fetishized and phallicized into pure identity.
100. 14. Rousseau, Politics and the Arts, p. 112. 15. Honoré de Balzac, Physiologie de la toilette, in Traité des excitants modernes; suivi de Physiologie de la toilette; et de Physiologie gastronomique, with a preface by Jean-Jacques Brochier, Bègles 1992. 16. Anne Hollander, in one of her most recent books Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Modern Dress, New York 1995 has attempted to free fashion from this stigma of femininity. She inscribes herself thereby explicitly in the line of the moderns, who oppose function to ornament: the basic opposition belongs together with a whole series of oppositions which shape the theory of fashion.
32 It is then precisely not the case, contrary to what is always claimed, that the theory of l’art pour l’art, the new type of man represented by the dandy, and the autonomization of fashion were apolitical phenomena. Rather, what they have in common is that they effect a subversion of the modern body politic – of that which, in modernity, the ‘political,’ whether bourgeois or proletarian, has come to mean – and this means, in the first place, a subversion of the political body. The collective formed on the basis of a shared masculinity seems to be split up and endangered by two factors: the feminine and the noble.
